There are few things more Valencian than horchata. Which was why at some point I had intended to blog about it. That is, until I met Neima Briggs, a fellow Austinite (i.e. from Austin, Texas) and recent Fulbright fellow to Valencia, but most important, perhaps the world's biggest chufa fan. Here is a guy who practically bleeds horchata. I was so impressed with his personal passion for the topic that I invited him to write an entry on it himself. Neima first came to Spain (to San Sebastian-Donostia in the Basque Country) back in 2009. But he returned to the horchata heartland, Valencia, in 2011-2012 on a Fulbright Research Grant to study —no, not horchata— antibiotic resistance development in bacteria residing in the gastrointestinal tract of humans, and how that resistance transfers between mother and infant. But he still found time while he was here to explore all aspects of Valencia's most famous refreshment. Below he provides you with a window into the long history and local love of the chufa, and even his own recipe! Following his year here, he will return to the United States to begin his studies on an MD/PhD at the University of Texas School of Medicine at Houston.
Two large glasses of horchata without sugar (left) and horchata granizada (right), which has a frozen slushy consistency. The dessert shown is a tart made with a cream from tigernuts. |
It is unknown precisely when Valencianos first started
squeezing the milk from the tigernut ("chufa"), but written records have accounts of the drink existing as
early as the end of the first millennia during the Muslim occupation of Spain.
The name orxata, is believed to derive from the Valenciano word ordiata, ordi
meaning barley in Latin. However, ask a local vendor at an horchatería in
Valencia and chances are they will tell you the local folk story of its
origin. It is said that when James I of Aragon (a.k.a. Jaume I) came to the Kingdom of Valencia to help solidify relations
before the impending Muslim invasion, he was approached in Alboraya (a
small town on the outskirts of the modern Valencia capital city) by a small
girl carrying the drink. After sipping the drink, he told the child, "Açò és or, xata!" ("That's
gold, darling!"). Whether or not this is the true etymology of the word,
for locals the drink is as precious as gold.
Shown here is the tigernut plant (photo from tigernut.com), a small tuber plant with the tigernut itself growing in the ground. Harvested between April and September every year, fields and fields of it can be seen on the northern outskirts of Valencia. |
A name familiar throughout most of Latin American, up into the
southern United States, horchata exists in many forms. Known as horchata de arroz (white rice) to Americans
and Mexicans, although similarly prepared,
the milk extraction from rice creates its own distinct flavor. The source of the milk varies greatly worldwide, ranging from
ground almonds, sesame seeds, rice, barley, or tigernuts. To make local varieties even more distinctive, spices and flavors are commonly added, including an 18 herb infusion in Ecuador, cocoa and
nutmeg in El Salvador and jicaro seeds and spices in Nicaragua and Honduras.
Basket of cleaned tigernuts made available for consumption for patrons at Horchatería Daniel. Sold in small packs for individual consumption or in larger bags for making horchata. |
Given the regional craze for all things chufa, there is naturally a local organic beer brewed from the tigernut, too. |
Exterior photo of Horchatería Daniel from Hola Valencia |
Horchatería de Santa Catalina: Beautiful and typically Valencian hand-painted tiles encompass horchata drinkers as they enjoy it inside one of Valencia's favorite establishments. |
Its iconic exterior façade. |
The Falla de Santa Catalina even included a miniature rendition of the Horchatería El Siglo in its 2012 falla. |
So now that you are addicted to Valencia’s liquid gold, you'll want to know how you can get more when you go home. Luckily, bottled horchata is sold all around Spain in grocery stores. Before you leave Valencia, you might also consider the fact that many horchaterías (and at the airport) sell a condensed horchata, so at home you can turn a one liter bottle into five liters worth of delicious enjoyment. Do you think bottled horchata is just not the same as that overwhelmingly delicious fresh-made hortchata? For those returning to the United States or anywhere in Europe, there is a Spanish food distributor LaTienda.com where you can order food to fill all your Spanish cravings (no need to stuff your suitcase with tigernuts!). They sell a bottled brand of horchata, Chufi.
Neima Briggs, today's guest author, showing his love of Valencia at Sevilla's Plaza de España |
That said, I have found making the horchata myself fun and without question well worth the effort. At $18 a bag, you can treat yourself to four liters of horchata spread out over the course of months. Although once made the horchata will go bad after a week, the nuts stay good for two years when placed in a well-ventilated dark space (best in a dry portion of the refrigerator). The recipe is quite simple and, building from years of practice, I have include my recipe below for those adventurous enough to try it. If you are interested, click the link below and keep reading...
Neima’s Horchata de Chufa (1
Liter):
Ingredients
Ingredients
½ lbs of chufa nuts
1 liter of filtered water*
1 stick of cinnamon
¼ lbs of sugar**
Lemon zest (½ of a lemon)
*I usually use Brita filtered water after it has sat out for
a day in the fridge to let the added chlorine bubble out (typical in many
cities). Just like coffee and tea, the quality of water plays an important role
in the flavor.
**The quantity is to personal taste. Many people like an
equal weight ratio of sugar to chufa. If you are diabetic or don’t like sweet,
horchata without sugar is delicious, so don’t hesitate!!
Preparation
1. Wash the chufa nuts very well (the nuts are from the ground an often still have dirt on them). Soak for several minutes and scrub nuts with a rough surfaces or metal scrubber. Rinse several times.
2. Soak the chufa nuts overnight in cold water in the refrigerator. After 12-14 hours the nuts should plump up.
3. Rinse the nuts in clean water.
4. Place the clean, plump chufa nuts in the blender along with the lemon zest, filtered water, sugar and lemon zest. If you prefer, traditional recipes call for a mortar and pestle here.
5. Place the concoction in the fridge for an hour, shaking a couple times in between.
6. Run the horchata through a metal mesh strainer in a large plastic bowl. I put two layers of paper towels above the strainer to help remove the smaller particulates. Repeat straining once.
7. Pour horchata from the bowl into a funnel attached to the liter container you wish to use.
8. Enjoy homemade, delicious horchata!
For best results, place horchata in the freezer for 20-30 minutes in the freezer before consumption to make a slightly slushy, Valencian horchata mix. Store in the fridge and shake daily to help prevent the horchata from settling out. Horchata stays good for up to a week, but best in the first two days. The nuts will stay good for up to two years when stored in a well-ventilated, dark area.
One of the few Valenciano traditions that I am unable to stomach. I can only associate the texture with wallpaper paste at the best of times.
ReplyDeleteMr. Grumpy, having never tried wallpaper paste, I couldn't comment on the aptness of the comparison. Though I suspect you've probably only ever tried bad horchata (of which there is a lot). I highly recommend you try out the Horchatería Daniel that Neima mentions here. It's horchata is well above the rest. And since it's not in Valencia, the city, you can go directly to Alboraya without ever having to brave the urban chaos that I know you prefer to avoid.
ReplyDeleteI think that the ice-cold gritty slush just reminded me of the semolina that us Brits are force-fed as schoolchildren. Each to their own, I'd much rather have a granizada, or failing that a Clara.
ReplyDeleteHmm. I know too many people who love this drink to let Grumpy and Rob's comments stand alone. Why are all the horchata fans so silent? ... Ah, of course, they're all too busy enjoying their delicious horchatas to comment here. [Slurp, slurp]
ReplyDeleteSpain - especially Valencia - has so many good foods to offer that I can'get exited by Horchata. For me it ranks waaaay down there with those ridiculous almond busicuits that turn to dust when you get them anywhere near your mouth.
ReplyDeleteFlattery will get you everywhere. If your goal is to persuade me, then posting comments like this —that Valencia has so many good foods— is right on target. I won't back down on my defense of the pleasures and merits of horchata, but I'll concede that there are other excellent, superb, incredible Valencian dishes that deserve trying first. (How is that for a reconciliation of positions?)
ReplyDeleteDid I mention that horchata is gluten free, okay for diabetics, and for people who are lactose intolerant? [Source: http://www.tigernuts.es/horchata_leche_de_chufa_chufas.html]
I am very excited to have found your blog with this recipe! I grew up drinking Mexican horchata (AKA rice water) but was recently diagnosed with diabetes and have completely eliminated rice from my diet. I miss horchata :(
ReplyDeleteLuckily, my friend reminded me of the OG horchata (Spanish horchata) and I am dying to make it. I will use your recipe. Thank you!!!
I arrived at your blog while researching tiger nuts as a possibly excellent source of resistant starch which has created a stir in some paleo and diabetic circles for possible heath benefits, including normalization of blood sugars. Any current research you might have on this topic would be of interest to a lot of us.
ReplyDeletehttp://freetheanimal.com/2013/12/resistant-primer-newbies.html#comment-555400
I went to Spain August of this year. I have family that I have seen in over a decade. I told my uncle that I like horchata, unknowing, there is horchata in Spain. He got real excited and said let me give you some to drink! I was like, okay? Where are we going? He laughed and grabbed a bottle of horchata from the fridge. At this point, I was lost. I love tacos and horchata from where I live (Chicago). I had no idea that horchata originated from Spain, mainly from Valencia, where my family lives. I tried it and I told my uncle that this tastes nothing like the horchata the I know of. He told me the story of the Spanish horchata and I was intrigued. My cousin took me to Orxata Daniel and I tried it. This time, fresh and not from a bottle lol. After taking a few sips, my taste buds were trying to figure out what it was. Eventually, I started laughing and my cousin asked what's funny? I told him the Spanish horchata tastes like a strong version of carrot juice. He thought I was crazy, but that's what it tastes like, to me of course. I enjoyed the horchata and we went to Orxata Daniel a few times during my visit in Valencia. Just thought I'd share this story!
ReplyDeleteHi!
ReplyDeleteCan you use chufa flour?
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